Climbing Cotopaxi Volcano, Equador

I can tend to be a bit too romantic sometimes.  Reading about all these mountaineers, circumnavigators, arctic explorers, etc.....gets me dreaming and yearning to do the same.  Sometimes I find I am a pretty good fit for the chosen adventure, if not too extreme, and sometimes I find that I better move on to the next one.  I had been backpacking most of my life, and I like it, a lot.  And I feel like I am pretty good at it.  I would almost call myself a competent backpacker, if there is such a thing.  So, I'm thinking mountaineering would be the next step.  And I should be good at it too, since I have done well at the prerequisite course of backpacking.

The chance came up to try some mountaineering in Ecuador, and I took it.  The goal was the Cotopaxi Volcano at around 20000 feet high.  I had never done any high altitude climbing.  The highest I had been before this trip was around 14000 feet.  But I was sure I could handle this.  Right?

The climbing team at 15000 feet on our acclimatization hike just out of Quito.

We landed in Quito and got settled in our hotel.  We met up with a friend that lives there and he had recruited a local guide to take us up our first assent.  The next day we made a warmup hike up the foothills that surround Quito.  We reached a high altitude of just over 15000 feet.  So far so good.  We loaded up the rental car with our climbing gear and would travel to the Cotopaxi National Park the next day and stay in a cabin at around 12000 feet.

 Loading the car up with climbing gear

Our first look at Cotopaxi Volcano

Unloading our gear at our "base camp" at 12000 feet

Getting situated in our high altitude home.

Watching the sun set 

Hanging out  and relaxing before our trip to the mountain.

After getting situated at "base camp", which lies on a ridge overlooking an incredible scene with Cotopaxi dominating the western skyline, we relax and talk of our plans for the next several days.  We are at 12000 feet and will drive up to another hut "camp ll" at 15000 feet to get ready for the summit attempt.  I did not like this plan.  It was going to be too high, too fast for me.  I knew this from past experience.  I wanted to hike from base camp to camp ll, even if we had to spend the night out on the way.  This way we would have more time to adjust on our slower assent.  But the plan was to drive and drive we did.

It is about 10 miles from base camp to camp ll.  The next morning we loaded up the truck and headed toward the mountain.

We are about to walk from the parking lot to base camp ll at 15000 feet.

We would reach a parking lot at 14500 feet the next day and from there hike up to camp ll.  You can see the hut, camp ll, in the picture above.  The hike from the parking lot to camp ll would prove to me that this was not the best way to do things.  My body was really feeling the affects of the rapid altitude gain.

Hiking up to Camp ll from the parking lot

Looking back towards the parking lot on our way to camp ll.

After reaching camp ll, we rested and ate, and talked about taking a quick warmup hike for tomorrow.  We then went over rescue techniques and other safety issues and practiced some of the techniques on the sides of the buildings and on the snow slopes above the camp.  That evening we talked about our route up the mountain.  There was an established route that went up a smooth snow slope towards the summit, but the guide wanted to establish a new route up an icefall, with snow bridges, hidden crevasses, and other hazards.  I quickly protested and reminded everyone we were all new to this type of climbing and we should stay on the establish route the first time up.  I lost the argument and I was not happy about the decision but what can you do.

The next day, after sleeping very little, we loaded up our gear and headed up for our warmup hike.  The weather quickly turned bad with snow and white out conditions.  We were going to peek into the icefall and see if we could determine a starting point for our summit attempt.  The effects of our quick altitude gains over the past few days had really taken a toll on me.  I was feeling bad but I had to pay attention.

On the start of our warmup hike the weather turns bad quickly

As we get closer to the icefall we start searching for the best route up

As we enter the icefall we place protection for hidden crevasses.

Working our way up higher into the icefall as the weather continues to worsen.

We placed protection as we worked up the ice field.  The weather was near white out conditions.  This was turning out to be one hell of a warmup climb.  At one point I fell through a hidden crevasse and caught myself at waist level.  We were going to do this at night in 12 hours.  I was a bit nervous to say the least.

Working out our route up through the icefall.

We made our way back to camp ll and rested, ate, and prepared our gear for the summit attempt coming up at midnight.  I was feeling bad with severe headache, nausea, and diarrhea.  I was hoping a little nights sleep would take care of it.  The problem was that I didn't sleep a minute that evening and got up at 11:00 pm for the summit attempt feeling worse than ever.  We sat in the kitchen and tried to eat and talked about the climb.  I felt so bad I knew I shouldn't go and just rest but I made a poor decision and decided to try it.  At around midnight we were moving slowly up the mountain towards the ice field.

In the ice field early in the morning of our summit attempt.

The early morning climbing was like climbing in a maze.  We were constantly moving forward, then back, right, then left trying to find our way through it.  It was time consuming and exhausting.  I continued to feel worse as we climbed.  I kept telling myself I had to concentrate.

Balancing across one of the many snow bridges.

The sun was coming up as we were making our way out of the ice field and onto the smooth snow slope leading higher up the mountain.  The mountain started to moan with erie sounds emanating from the snow under our feet.  I was feeling as bad as I have ever felt in my life.  It was a struggle to stay focused on what I was doing and stay on my feet.  About 10 minutes after exiting the ice field, I lost consciousness for a second a woke up with my face in the snow.  It was brief, and I kept my footing, but I knew then I was in real trouble.  I got a shot of adrenaline but I was so sapped that it provided me with no reserve energy.  I knew I was in a fight and thought of my family and every ounce of energy went into getting my self back down.

The extent of exhaustion is hard to describe.  I guess it could be similar to driving 48 hours or more without sleep.  Even though you are on a steep snow slope and a fall could kill you, all you want to do is go to sleep. It's a fight to stay awake even in the presence of danger.

Everyone else seemed to be doing ok.  They didn't have any idea how bad I was and we kept moving up.  They didn't realize what had just happened.  I was going to tell them I was heading down as soon as we stopped to rest.

Out of the ice field and onto a smooth snow slope nearing 17000 feet.

Stopped by a huge crevasse, we rest on a ridge at just over 17000 feet.

About 20 minutes after I blacked out we reached a large crevasse that blocked our way.  We rested while our guide searched for a place to cross.  This was a real obstacle for me in my current condition.   I had very little energy left to get myself across this crevasse.  I was worried.  

Bruce looking strong at 17000 feet.

The altitude is starting to have an impact on some of the other climbers.

Self portrait just before crossing the large crevasse.

Working our way out of the crevasse

You can see our tracks on the downhill side of the crevasse just right of center of this photo.

After making our way through the crevasse, we had another couple of hundred vertical feet before reaching the established trail.  I had decided this is the point I turn around and head down.  We stopped to rest after reaching the established trail.  I told them that I had to head back down.  They tried to convince me that I could do it.  They really had no idea how bad I felt.  I told them that I think I could make it down alone and that they could continue their assent.  But they insisted that if I go down, everyone goes down.  I hated that I ended their attempt, but I was also relieved I would have rope protection on the way down.  I was so weak on the decent that I stumbled many times and I was thankful the other climbers had me on the rope team.  I don't think I could have safely descended without them.

The view of the mountain after our summit attempt.  Just below the rock outcropping near the top is the ice field that we climbed through(it is highlighted by a circle of sunlight).  Just to the lower right of the rock outcropping in the shadows you can see a horizontal line.  That is the crevasse that slowed our progress.

After our climb, we packed up the next morning and headed back to Quito.  We toured the city that day and relaxed.  The next couple of days we were headed into the countryside to climb.

We then did a side trip to Cayambe for a climb.  We drove through some beautiful country and arrived at the hut at the base of Cayambe.  We ate lunch at the hut and talked about the climb.  There were really bad snow conditions on the mountain and the locals told us some very experienced climbers had just came and left after looking at the conditions.  We decided to follow their lead and do the same.  We headed back down the mountain and headed back towards Quito.  We stopped at a very nice resort with hot springs baths and soaked in the springs for the afternoon before returning to Quito.  

A view of Cayambe Volcano

Our next trek would be to the Illinizas mountains just south of Quito.  We were going to climb there and try to get stronger for another attempt at Cotopaxi.  We arrived in a small town just east of the Illinizas and stayed in a very interesting hut in town that caters to climbers.  We sat around the fireplace, ate,talked and played guitar.  It was a good time.  

We ordered chicken soup at this eatery and watched them catch and kill the chicken we were about to eat.  Doesn't get much fresher than that. 

Hanging out in town before the Illinizas climb

The next day we loaded up the truck and headed for the Illinizas.  It was a very rough and muddy road but the views were great.  The roads got so bad we could not make it to the end of the road at the foot of the mountain so we had a long hike to the base.  This was good for me.  The slower assent always helps me.  I had a good climb feeling good the entire trip.  We reached an altitude of close to 16000 feet.  I was feeling stronger.  The weather turned us around before we reached the top and headed back down.

Near the end of our climb on the Illinizas due to weather.

Climbing on the Illinizas.

Headed back down on the Illinizas.

Heading down with the Illinizas behind us.

After a good climb on the Illinizas I was feeling much better about my chances on our next attempt of Cotopaxi.  We left the Illinizas for Cotopaxi the next morning and got situated at camp II on Cotopaxi. We were going to take the established route up Cotopaxi this time and I led the team the first several hours.  Below are pictures of our assent in the early morning.

Views of Cotopaxi as the sun rises.

After making it to around 17000 feet, one of the climbers got ill and we had to retreat.  I was disappointed but that is the nature of climbing.  We headed down.  The following photos were taken as we headed down the mountain.

Heading down Cotopaxi.

We spent the night on the mountain for another attempt the next morning.  I had gotten a stomach bug during the night and woke up feeling bad.  I was not going to make the same mistake I made earlier in the trip and made the decision not to attempt the climb.  Another team member and I stayed up most of the night and kept radio contact with the climbers.  The next day, as they approached camp II on the way down, I carried several bottles of water up a couple hundred vertical feet and met them on the trail.  They were very tired and dehydrated and welcomed the drink.

Below are pictures of the other climbers going for their 3rd and final attempt of Cotopaxi.  They made it very high on the mountain nearing 19000 feet but had to turn around because of the bad snow conditions.

Feeling the effects of climbing high on Cotopaxi.

I ran across a rock climber in the Wind River Range while hiking in 2003 who worked for Mountain Madness Guide Service, founded by the late Scott Fisher.  He told me, "Put a plastic bag over your head and then crawl into a freezer with a hammer and hit your head and knees over and over with the hammer, If you like that, you will like high altitude mountaineering".  As far as my experience goes, I think he was about right.

Wind River Mountain Traverse: 9 days 120 miles in August 2011



Lizardhead Mtn and the Cirque

Being in the mountains for an extended period will change you.  I was having dinner with some friends  the day I got back from this trip.  I was trying to explain to them the change that takes place in the mountains (I would guess any remote outdoor environment).   I told them that being out there away from all the control we have imposed to make life seem safe and predictable, away from the insulation we have created to isolate one from the harshness of "the real world", the comforts, safeguards, distractions (tv and computer), and away from the daily bombardment from a culture sickened by greed, you find the time to think about some very important and basic things. You begin to realize how utterly out of control we really are despite all the effort to control.  You realize from observing the billion year old mountain range how insignificant one is and how fast life passes by.  And by walking through fields of blue bells and indian paintbrush and giant fir forests and observing the incredible natural beauty that this planet has, you realize how precious your life is and how privileged we all are to be a part of it.  I told them these observations create a keen focus on the really important things in life; family, friends, and spirituality. And the strong belief that we better take care of this planet, our home.  Being in the wild changes me for the better.  It gives me a renewed focus on what is important.  It is often emotional for me to drive back home from an outdoor adventure.  I can't wait to get home and see my family and friends and try harder to be a better person and to focus on the things in life that really matter.  After I finished telling my story I noticed the blank stares I was getting from my friends.  I guess you have to experience it for yourself to really understand it.

I had planned a Wind River Mountain Range traverse for almost a decade.  It all came together on a Monday in August 8, 2011.  My bother Pete and I started hiking Monday morning at 7 am at the Worthen Meadows Reservoir trail head.  We had planned for food for ten days.  Knowing that we would need 2 lbs of food per day, we each were carrying about 20 lbs of food.  We had bought some lighter gear to make our load lighter: a  Nemo 1 person tent, a Western Mountaineering Sycamore 25 degree sleeping bag, a Gregory Baltoro 70 backpack, and a Soto cook stove.  We weren't ultra light but much lighter than I had ever been for this length of trip. We ended up carrying about 45 lbs to start the trip.  We brought water purification tablets but at the last minute I threw in my Katadyn Basecamp gravity feed bag water filter and I am so glad I did.  

Sheep Bridge over Middle Fork of the Popo Agie River

Day 1:  Worthen Meadows Reservoir to Pinto Park Lake 

The Sheep  Bridge Trail heads north from Worthen Meadows Reservoir.  It ends at the bridge that spans the middle fork of the Popo Agia River where it connects with the Middle Fork Trail.  There it heads west towards Three Rivers Park, which makes a good lunch stop along the Middle Fork of the Popo Agie.  Here we took the Pinto Park trail  and camped one mile shy of Pinto Park at the junction of Pinto Park trail and Deep Creek lakes trail.  We opted to camp there fearing there would be 

Pinto Park Lake


no water on top at Pinto Park.  Pinto Park lake was I nice side hike with a very good swimming hole to bath in.  Our first day was about 9 miles and 7 hours of hiking.  Living in low altitude, we thought it best to start slow and end fast if we had to.


A view of Lizardhead Mtn. and the Cirque from Pinto Park

Day 2: Pinto Park to Lizardhead Meadows

This was our easiest day of hiking and we covered only 7.5 miles.  We knew Lizardhead Trail was going to be tough and wanted a good rest the day before we did it.  Also, Lizardhead Meadows is beautiful and we wanted time to take it in and fish the North Fork of the Popo Agie.  We saw our first look it the high peaks at Pinto Park.  It is just a spectacular view there. From there the trail is down hill until you reach the North Fork of the Popo Agie River.  There you go west on the North Fork Trail, which is a beautiful hike along this magnificent river.  It day ended with the spectacular setting of Lizardhead Meadows




Lizardhead Moutain at Lizardhead Meadows

Day 3: Lizardhead Meadows to Ranger Park

We left around 8 am and headed up Lizardhead Trail from the meadows.  The trail is steep with spectacular views of the cirque and surrounding granite walls. It took us about 2 1/2 hours to make the top of windy mountain.  This mountain is flat and massive with about a 4 mile hike to Bears Ears Trail which leads past Valentine Lake and down into Ranger Park. 



A look from Lizardhead Trail as we climb up to Windy Mtn.

On top of Windy Mtn with the summit of Lizardhead in the background.

Looking down toward Ranger Park in the valley from Windy Mtn.

The rough and rugged Bears Ears Trail



A great camp just above Ranger Park



Day 4: Ranger Park to East Fork River on the Fremont Trail

This early morning hike along Washakie, Macon, and Pass Lake was just magical.  It was one of the most beautiful walks through the woods I have ever made.  The weather was perfect and the scenery devine.

The gateway into a beautiful world

Buffalo Head Mtn near Ranger Park

Washakie Lake and Mtn in the background

Looking back toward Ranger Park on our way to Washakie Pass

After walking through this beautiful area we passed Macon Lake and started a steep climb toward Washakie Pass all the time looking at a formidable obstacle along our path.  The upper reaches of the pass was snow packed.  We didn't have any tools to deal with this (crampons or ice axe) so we were a bit nervous.  After reaching the snow we took a good break and watched a Colorado group work their way up the snow with helmets on and ice axes in hand.  We then made our way up our chosen route.  I lead kicking steps along the way.  It was going fine until I hit ice that was hidden under 2 inches of snow.  I told Pete we had a problem.  Luckily the ice was along a ridge and just feet above this ice was a very flat area.  I told Pete we were going to flop ourselves over this thin section of ice and not place our feet on it at all.  We did and it worked.  As we made our way to the top, a middle aged couple was coming down.  I told them about the ice and where it was.  They were so nonchalant it worried me.  After we made the rocks we sat down and watched as they approached the section of ice.  They walked right onto it and she slipped and landed on her rear and started to slide.  He managed to catch her, if not she had a 60 foot slide into granite rocks.  I waited until they had safely made it off the snow before we left.  I had a FindMeSpot that could call in rescue and was relieved I didn't have to. 

I hiking couple just before a slip on the ice

We continued on the western side of Washakie Pass and headed toward the western side of the Cirque. There we turned west up Washakie Creek toward the East Fork River where we made camp on the edge of a beautiful park.  I had good luck fishing in the East Fork. 

Looking toward the East Fork River from camp

East Fork River

Day 5: East Fork River to Lake Susan

We were excited to get on the Highline Trail today and get on some flat land with easier hiking. We were in for a surprise.  We started the morning climbing a hill to get on the high plain above.  After making the top our spirits were high seeing the flat beautiful meadow with fantastic views all around.  Our feet were aching due to the rough trails we had traveled. The pack animals and vibram soles had taken a toll on the trails and granite rocks tripped and twisted the ankles mercelessly. We were glad to be on some flat ground with a dirt surface.  

The high plains looking back at the Cirque



Heading towards Cross Lake on the Fremont Trail

We met a couple of guys that were testing gear for Hyperlite Mountain Gear Company.  They gave of some information on trail navigation, saying it was tough in some areas, so much so they had gotten off track for several miles.  Even after that warning I had missed the junction from the Fremont Trail to the New Highline Trail and had gotten off on the Scab Creek Trail.  I had quickly realized my mistake and we did a cross country off trail trek for a little over a mile to get back on the New Highline Trail.  On the way Pete was almost stabbed by a porcupine as he nearly stepped on top of it.



Large porcupine that Pete almost stepped on

We reconnected with the New Highline Trail at Dream Lake and took a water break.  We continued on the New Highline Trail which had become very hard to follow.  I really had to pay attention to stay on trail.  For the rest of the day we saw no other person.  We began to call this section the "badlands" of the Highline Trail.  There were giant 300 ft. high "moguls" that were very hard to navigate through and very hard on the feet with very rough trails and downed trees across the path.  Insect and fire damage had caused massive damage and it took 2 days to walk through this less than desirable part of the trail system.  In hindsight, we should have taken the Old Highline Trail and the Fremont Trail, keeping us in higher ground with better views and easier walking. 


Lake Susan on the New Highline Trail

We found a great camp just passed Lake Susan.  There were flat rocks next to a small creek and we had sun and a good breeze blowing up the valley that kept all bugs away.  Oh, I haven't mentioned bugs yet.  The mosquitos were in record numbers this year along with the record snow loads.  They were relentless at camp but didn't bother us much as we hiked.  The wind kept them at bay and we became keen on camping in areas that had a breeze.  They also went to bed around 10 pm most  nights so I could open up my tent door for ventalation. This became one of our favorite camps.


Camp just past Lake Susan

Day 6: Lake Susan to Barnes Lake

We continued on in the "Badlands" and really had an unremarkable day hiking through what we both considered a mistake in trail choices.  Navigation continued to be stressful and very difficult. 


The "Badlands". Bug and fire damage has made this section undesirable

But even in the Badlands there were many beautiful lakes

We camped at Barnes Lake, tired and with aching feet.  The bugs had gotten worse and would continue to be more of a problem the rest of the trip.  

Day 7: Barnes Lake to Island Lake

We were excited to be getting back into high country today.  The hike from Barnes Lake was along a valley containing the Chain Lakes.  It was a pleasant and wild area that continued to grow in beauty as we approached Pole Creek Lakes.  The Pole Creek Lakes area was just magnificent.  There were some large river crossings that forced us to put on the sandles , keeping our boots dry.



Pole Creek Lakes area

One of several river crossings in the Pole Creek Lakes area

After haveing lunch at our junction at the Cook Lakes Trail, we headed northwest towards Tommy Lake and Lester Pass.  We climbed steadily and reached the pass only to find another large snow pack blocking our passage.  I tested the snow and thought we could safely cross.  I kicked steps and was finding that this snow pack was larger and more fatiguing than the one at Washakie Pass. We made it safely and we were both energized with a shot of adrenaline.

Looking toward Lester Pass and the snowpacked pass

Looking at Upper Seneca Lake and the Titcomb Basin area

We camped between Island Lake and Lost Lake just off trail.

Hazy moon over Lost Lake

Day 8: Island Lake to Green River

I had looked at the maps closely the night before.  We were running out of food and needed to get out in two days.  They were going to be two long hard days of hiking of around 15 miles each.  We headed toward Lower and Upper Jean Lake and the scenery was impressive.  It is a steady climb which ends at around 11,200 feet on the north side of Upper Jean Lake.  There the Highline Trail goes west toward Elbow Lake and you begin the decent toward Summit Lake and the Green River Valley.   



Lower Jean Lake

Upper Jean Lake

Summit Lake and the Green River Valley in the background

Storm approaching as we desend into the Green River Valley

Our camp on the Green River

Day 9: Green River to Green River Lakes

We got up at 5 am and hit the trail at 6.  We were trying to get out early enough to drive to Rawlins for lunch at Rose's Lariat, a small local mexican resturaunt that is Oh So Good.  The walk along the Green River was spectacular and one of the most scenic hikes of the trip.  The forest is lush and wet, much like the northwest with fungi and mosses.  The landscape is dominated by Squaretop Mtn. with the Green River flowing at it's flanks. 

Yes the Green River is green

Squaretop Moutain and the Green River

The end of a great trip

Food that worked:
Ramen Noodles(chicken)
Harmony House Mama Mia vegetable soup
Snickers bars
Nature Valley oats and honey and oats and dark chocolate bars
Idahoan Powdered potatoes
Whole Powdered Milk mixed with powdered chocolate (1/1 ratio)
Instant oat meal
Insant grits
Gouda Cheese
2.25 lbs Jeff's Beef Jerky
1 lb of Walnuts(shelled of course)
Drink mix for flavoring water
Premium saltine crackers
Backpackers Pantry Freeze/Dried Backpacker meals (Beef Stroganoff, Pad Thai, Granola and Blueberries)
Hard pepperoni
Gear that worked:
Katadyn Base Camp gravity feed water filter was indispensible
Nemo 1p tent was awesome(it did have condensation on inside but manageable)
Soto mini regulator stove is the best(It took 2.5 larger isobutane canisters for 9 days)
Western Moutaineering Sycamore 25 degree sleeping bag was perfect
Asolo 500 series boot without GoreTex lining worked great but I would put in a good insert
Gregory Baltoro 70 backpack felt great on back but stitches busted on a couple of seams...bummer.

Tips:
I would definately do the Old Highline Trail instead of the New and take the Fremont Trail and stay high in the mountains where it ends at Cook Lakes instead of going down toward Lake George and Horseshoe Lake on this section of the Old Highline Trail. The New Highline Trail is riddled with bug and fire damage and navigation is difficult and the trail was not maintained very well.

Go in September when you can enjoy the scenery without mosquitos in the ears and nose. 

Most groups we met were  hiking from North to South but we thought we were going the right direction from South to North because the sun was at our backs most of the time and made sight seeing much more pleasant. Also, the snow packed passes were always on the south side so we were always moving up the snow instead of down(which is more dangerous). The wind seemed to be at our backs most of the trip too, which made it nice.